最近添購了一塊INCRA Solid Aluminum MagnaLOCK RT Plates 的板子,

一塊 undrilled 的板!



不知版上是否有同好手上有,小弟目前正愁如何鑽孔安置倒裝我的 Makita RP2300FC 路達機!

向 INCRA 官網的 Sales 詢問,想當然是一長篇英文,有看沒有懂!@@

1. Center the router on the plate and draw a pencil line on the plate around the router's base. If the plastic sub base a smaller or medium-sized center hole, you can center it pretty accurately by simply removing the sub base from the router and moving it around so it’s centered over the Incra plate's 1" steel reducing ring.


2. If you haven’t already, remove the plastic sub base from the router and mark on it (with masking tape) the location of the handles, switches, plunge lock, variable speed dial, or any other features that might be important to access on the router after it's mounted. On large routers the handles should point toward the corner of the plate to clear the table opening.


3. Use double sided tape to adhere the sub base to the router plate in the correct orientation for handles, switches, etc. If you’re marking the bottom of the plate, the side of the sub base that’s normally against the lumber should be against the bottom of the router plate; if you’re marking the top of the plate, the side of the sub base that was against the routers base should be taped to the router plate (many routers have asymmetric bolt patterns).


4. Mark the hole locations with a self-centering drill bit (the kind with the spring-loaded metal sleeve around the bit - Vix bits or Snappy bits are common brands). Don't drill more than a reasonable dimple at this point. Without a self-centering bit, you can wrap tape around the bit to snug it up in the sub base's holes).


5. A drill press is the best choice for doing the drilling. Install a sharp, standard-style two-flute twist drill bit that’s 1/32” - 3/64” larger than the bolts' thread diameter.


6. Align the spinning bit over the drilled marks, shut off the drill press, and clamp the plate in this position.


7. Drill the hole at a slower speed (800rpm?) and feed with solid, steady pressure...you want the bit to pull up longer threads of aluminum instead of a shower of small chips with the bit chattering around in the hole.


8. You'll likely need longer bolts than what came with the router, as the plate is usually much thicker than the router's sub base. Use a multi-flute 82-degree (standard) countersink to get the tops of the bolt heads below the top surface of the plate, but don't countersink unnecessarily deep.


9. When you mount the router, start all the bolts and snug them in sequence instead of fully one at a time...if you're a little off, the error is spread across the entire bolt pattern with this method.

若是能加上圖片說明或是相關網站施作的步驟就好了!@@
不好意思, 我不是進來回覆樓主問題的
只是小弟之前也考慮買路達桌板, 弄個簡易的路達桌
當時看到大司賣的路達桌專用板, 也只要台幣 $650, 相當實惠~~~

所以小弟比較好奇,
樓主怎麼會考慮從國外買桌面, 含運費花了多少$$
(很多木工前輩從國外買東西的前提, 是英文好....)
(不過樓主看到英文時的症狀應該和我差不多, 一個頭兩個大..)
我想是因為在台灣工具樣式較少以及價格偏高
有時去國外買再加上運費寄到台灣
價格可能還比在台灣買便宜
像我為例在日本買了樣工具寄回台灣送人
工具本身的價格再加上運費比還便宜了快接近900
但是缺點就是會比較慢拿到,以及要承擔海外購物的風險就是了

ArnoldTsai wrote:
最近添購了一塊INC...(恕刪)


這是一封制式的安裝回文, 以Makita RP2300FC而言, 您可以把黑色塑膠的底座拿下來, 放在鋁板上, 想辦法對準中心, 在原來的四個固定螺孔用筆做好記號, 用中心衝打個小凹洞, 再用鑽床鑽出和黑色塑膠底座一樣大小的孔, 再用10mm的鑽頭鑽出螺絲的沈孔, 再去買四支較長的螺絲, 這樣就能很準確地把 Makita RP2300FC 固定好, 接下來就是設計升降的方法.
搜尋 router lift,應該可以找出很多種作法
看你是要用木作,齒輪,鋼絲....很多很多哩
http://www.woodworkforums.com/f20/makita-rp2301fc-unilift-wixey-height-gauge-145570/index2.html
上面這個連結的也蠻好看的
ArnoldTsai wrote:
目前網上找到比較相近...(恕刪)
最終的方法最後還是決定取用小弟上面所貼連結的方式,

個人覺得會比較穩固些!

至於代工加工部分,小弟已找到一間鐵工廠,下禮拜應該會拿去施作!

成品回來再 PO 上!^^
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